Ask a Behaviorist!
Ask a Behaviorist!
Ask Larry Lachman a questions regarding animal behavior and behavior modificaton.email
2/8/97 Q: We adopted a cat about five months ago from a cat protection society. J.D. is a neutured male approximately one-and-half years old. He is a very affectionate cat -- a little shy around strangers, but very loving -- and has fit into our household of three children and another cat quite nicely. The only behavior "problem" we have noticed is his propensity for eating non-food items. He has eaten towels, sweaters, gloves, sweatshirts, and blankets. When I say eaten, I mean EATEN. The towels look like Swiss cheese. He has even opened cupboard doors to snack on washclothes. His appetite is normal; he eats about a tablespoon of Friskies Special Diet (Ocean Whitefish) once a day and Iams dry food throughout the day. He does not vomit or have unusual feces (as far as I can tell). Our vet proclaims J.D. healthy and says that he has never heard of such behavior in cats -- only in dogs. Have you heard of this? Thanks for your help.
A: Yes, I have heard and seen it many times, especially in young male cats. Here are a few suggestions:
1. You may want to talk to your vet about giving J.D. an enzyme supplement to make sure he is indeed metabolizing all the good nutrient value of the diet you have him on.
2. Make sure your vet has checked a couple of J.D.'s stool samples and has ruled out parasitic worms or coccidosis.
3. Make sure the ingredients of the iams has beef and chicken in it; you don't want J.D. merely on a fish-based diet.
4. Do not give J.D. clothing objects or linen to play with or chew on.
5. Get some catnip-filled mouse toys, or fresh or packaged catnip, and spread that around for him to roll in, chew on, etc.
6. He may be doing this out of anxiety; try to ascertain if there have been any recent changes in his home environment and spend one-on-one sole-attention focus sessions with him, using the catnip, the toys, and some pounce or cheese treats; talk soothingly to him and caress him gently.
7. Catch him in the act of chewing on something inapporpriate and startle him with a loud noise or brief squirt of water.
8. Prepare a sacrifice object (towel, whatever) and liberally spray your hair spray on it or a mixture of water and wasabe (the Japanese green horseradish they put on sushi) so he will associate an aversive taste with off-limits objects.
9. Confine him in safe zones when you're not there, so he doesn't get random reinforcement for chewing on inappropriate objects when you're not around to catch him.
Try these things and see how he does over a four- to six-week period. Good luck.
2/8/97 Q: We have two cats, both about six years old, one male, one female, both neutered/spayed. The male has colitis.
Sporadically, over the years, one or both (we don't know which) has been urinating outside the litterbox. We have gotten rid of at least two living room chairs because we were unable to break the habit any other way -- sprays, neutralizers, nothing works. The odd thing is that the behavior is not constant. Months can pass without an occurrence, and then it starts up again and becomes consistent.
A few months ago they urinated on the couch for the first time, then several times after. Now we have reupholstered the couch, and we are determined to stop this pattern. We have been covering the couch with plastic at night and when we are out, but that hasn't stopped the urination -- though it has saved the couch.
I brought my cats to the vet yesterday to rule out an organic cause, but she didn't even check. She said that if the urination was caused by illness, they would not return to the same place each time. Is that correct? What can I do?
A: Maybe or maybe not on the illness aspect; it could have originally caused it.
Here's what I suggest you do:
1. Confine cats in safe zone when not home or can't observe. 2. Make sure they are on a beef/chicken-based diet, not merely fish. 3. One litter box per cat. 4. Thoroughly scoop each, every day. 5. Completely wash out and replace litter twice a week. 6. No plastic linings. 7. No buda covers. 8. No deodorizers added to the litter. 9. Use the sand type of litter. 10. No grooming cat around litter box. 11. Use "Outright," in the green bottle (available at pet stores), on the urine accident locations. 12. Apply citrus-smelling agent to spot afterwards. 13. Lay a piece of tin foil on the area. 14. Get each cat individually to snack in that area. 15. Have daily one-on-one focus sessions with each cat individually with no distractions, talking soothingly to the cat, playing with catnip and catnip toys. 16. No corporal punishment. 17. Talk to your vet about a temporary dose of an anti-anxiety agent, like buspirone or diazepam.
Good luck.
2/2/97 Q: We acquired two absolutely gorgeous cats (long hair - one is solid black and one is solid white). My guess is they are Persians. According to our vet, they were about six to eight months old when we got them. No physical problems. They got all shots, flea shots, tests, were neutered...if it was suggested, they got it.
The problem is that these animals have absolutely no manners and appear to have no intelligence. They have been with us six months now. They are fed and watered properly, and are given constant attention. They constantly get into the trash can, on counters, and even on the stove while we're cooking. This is driving me nuts! We have tried using a water gun, aluminum foil on furniture, pans on the counter. Nothing seems to faze these animals. When they get caught doing something they shouldn't, they just stare (even while being squirted with the water gun). Sometimes they just go back to the inappropriate behavior. Don't even ask about catching mice. They would rather watch mice than catch them. These animals are littermates (I am told) and were originally rescued from a "drug house." Could this awful behavior be the survival tactics learned when they were small?
If the children were not so attached, these animals would live elsewhere. Can you recommend any particular books/articles? We are in a very rural area, and I don't think there is a local animal behaviorist, as there is not much need when most people have cows and chickens.
A: The behavior you described sounds quite catlike. Cats will tend to climb, jump, explore, tunnel and be relatively independent in spirit.
When you can't watch them, try confining them in a safe zone area of your home, away from the stove and kitchen counters.
I would supply them with catnip, catnip toys, scratching posts, and "kitty condos," to redirect their natural exploratory behavior to their things to climb on, etc. Even in a rural area, you can get these items either at a feed store, C.O.D. delivery from the nearest pet store, or from the R.C. Steel Animal Supplies Catelog.
I also recommend that you read *Understanding Your Cat*, by Michael Fox, and *Cats on the Couch*, by Carol Wilbourne.
Finally, don't merely focus on punishment, punishment, punishment; they will habituate to it and your relationship with the two cats will be damaged.
When you do catch them IN THE ACT OF THE CRIME, use an ultrasound device like the "Dazer" (which you can also order from R.C. Steele), or a handheld lipstick-sized airhorn to startle them. You could even use a 60cc horse syringe of water, which should be more effective than what you described using.
Last, but not least, the cats need to be fixed: spayed and neutered.
Good luck.
1/27/97 Q: We have a 10-month-old cocker. She is hyper, so we are taking her to obedience training. This evening she got hold of my camera (this was up on a stand) and chewed the cover off, then started on the battery. My husband was sleeping and I was on the computer. Will she settle down? She goes wild when anyone comes and we have to cage her.
A: Yes, she's young and will eventually settle down. Spaying her will help a lot. Not petting her around the face or head will help a lot. Not giving her clothing objects will help a lot. Redirecting her to appropriate chew objects, like the imitation lamb frisbee or ball toys, or the Gimborn Natural Sterilized Bones stuffed with goodies, will also help. And finally, catching her in the act of the crime and startling her (without hitting or choking her) with a water blast or can of pennies, will help. Good luck.
1/27/97 Q: I have a seven-month-old male (recently neutered) kitten. In the past couple of weeks he has taken to biting me for no apparent reason. He is sometimes purring when he does this, and will latch onto my arm and bite extremely hard. He will not let go, until I literally pry his mouth open. I have tried a spray bottle and a very firm "NO" to no avail. He may run away, but will be back in 30 seconds. I am at my wits' end. He is normally a very loving kitten. This behavior has become bothersome, as I have not changed anything. If you could offer any advice, it would be greatly appreciated.
A: It's not unusual for a young male cat to engage in this behavior. Many times it's redirected sexual frustration or a response to outside kitties around the house, or a response to over-handling.
So: 1. The cat should not be allowed to go out and roam.
2. Do not frequently pick it up or pet it for long periods of time; you may be triggering the behavior through overstimulating its nervous system.
3. It takes four to six weeks to see the effect of the neutering.
4. Buy some catnip-filled toys (like catnip mouses, toys with long handles on them), and fresh catnip, and help redirect his behavior to appropriate play toys which simulate prey.
5. If he is relentlessly attacking you, you may want to use a more powerful water device, like a mountain bike water bottle or 60cc horse water syringe, or use a can of pennies or an ultrasound device called a "dazer" (available at Brookstone stores in Southern California).
Give him lots of attention (slow, soft, and brief petting), along with scrumptious food treats, when he is behaving nicely so he learns what gets a paycheck and what gets a pink slip. You don't want to just punish, punish, punish.
Good luck.
1/21/97 Q: Three days ago I brought home a beautiful all-white house kitten. He is nine weeks old, is very playful, and eats and drinks regularly. All has been going well but he will not stop crying at night. It would not concern me if it was just for a half hour, but it is literally all night long. Someone had mentioned getting another kitten because my wife and I work a lot. Please help! I need to get a good night's sleep.
A: It's not uncommon for new kittens, who miss the warmth and companionship of their mothers and littermates, to cry. However, they usually get through this by anywhere between a couple of nights up to a week or so, if they are not physically distressed with illness. So, here are a few things you may want to do:
1. Make sure the bedding is soft (towels, blankets, etc.).
2. You can slip a hot water bottle, which is warmed but not too hot, under the towel or blanket to simulate the warmth of the litter.
3. A radio, soft stereo music and/or a loud ticking clock, may also simulate the sounds of a litter and soothe the kitty.
4. The kitten should be confined in one room, protected from drafts, with its litter box on one end, and its food and water and toys on the other.
5. Kitty-proof the room to prevent escape or injury (from things such as electric cords and glass objects).
By the end of the first two weeks, as long as you spend sufficient time with it during the day, the kitten should quiet down. Good luck.
1/21/97 Q: I was very happy to find a Web site that offered a feedback section. I'm very much in need of some advice with regard to my two cats. Basically, I've a six-year-old female. Six months ago I brought home a three-month-old male cat. The two initially tolerated each other. Now, however, the male has become very aggressive toward the female (he was fixed several month ago and I thought this would help). I'm getting very concerned and think I may have to get rid of him. Any idea of what's going on?
A: 1. Keep the cats separated in different rooms when you're not home.
2. Rub a towel on each cat to get their smell on it, and re-rub the other cat with it and place each cat's scent towel under the other cat's food and sleep area.
3. Spread out some catnip and be armed with a bike water bottle, and bring both cats in when you're home to supervise.
4. Any aggressive behavior by the male, blast him with a strong water blast and a "No."
5. When they are in proximity and enjoying the catnip and getting along, praise and use kitty treats.
6. Talk to your vet about temporarily using Buspirone for your male's aggression for a four- to eight-week period and gradually wean him off it.
7. Do not allow either cat outside.
8. Do not give the cats separate attention. Give them attention only when they're both around and both getting attention (with you armed with treats and a water bottle), so each cat becomes a cue of positive attention for the other one.
Good luck.
1/21/97 Q: Thank you for the advice regarding our cocker spaniel and her eating habits. I have been keeping the yard clean; however, I have not seen much progress.
The reason I am writing again is that she is the only dog out of four that we have not been able to completely housebreak. She was crate-trained from the start. We got her at eight weeks old. She was the runt of the litter. She has the run of our utility room during the day. If she does not get to go out on her normal schedule, she is likely to defecate and play with the feces. If we keep her on a leash connected to a chair leg in the family room or living room, she is happy and content. She can stay in that location all day with no accidents. However, if you let her loose to play with the other dog, she will go to a remote spot in the house and relieve herself. Why can she hold it all day in the utility room, but not be able to if we let her loose in the house?
At night she stays in her crate, and she does not have accidents in there. One exception occurred when our cat got closed in her crate one night. On that occasion, she defecated in her crate.
She is a very alert, affectionate, fun-loving dog that seems to want to please and be obedient. Why are we having difficulty training her? She is a year and four months old. Her behavior and play habits are still like a puppy. She holds our older dog's ear when she goes outside. She wants to play and roughhouse with him all the time.
She has given signal that she has to go out when she is confined in the utility room. She will jump on the gate and watch to get eye contact with you. Then she will bark or run towards the door. No such warning is given when she chooses to relieve herself in the house.
We love her and are willing to work with her on this problem. I feel sure it is behavioral and that we can do something about it. We hope to be able to let her loose in the house without fear of an accident. Please advise.
A: Again with the copraphagia:
1. Lamb-and-rice-based diet. 2. Kayzyme enzyme supplement 3. Put Accent or chlorophyll tablets in her food. 4. Catch in the act and startle with air horn or blast of water in face when she attempts to eat the feces. 5. Go out with her and pick up feces each time. 6. Vet should rule out coccidiosis or parasites.
For the housebreaking:
1. Take her out: a. when she wakes up b. after she eats c. after 10 minutes of constant play or car rides d. before bed. 2. Go out for 20 minutes at a time. 3. Take to the same place each day. 4. Four hours before bed, no more food. 5. Three hours before bed, ice instead of water. 6. At night, crated or leashed under your supervision in your room at night. 7. At any accident area, clean up with Nature's Miracle, let dry, and use twice a day for 4 weeks; feed dog treats at the accident spot to change meaning of area from pooping area to snacking area. 8. Spay her at six months of age. 9. Take her to all the areas of house, give her a bone to chew on, and watch her. The more time she spends at all areas of the house while engaging in elimination-incompatible behavior, the more quickly she'll learn not to soil the home.
Expect 8-12 weeks for it to take. Good luck.
1/21/97 Q: Hi. My mother-in-law is distraught over the possibility that she might have to put her cat down. The animal is perfectly healthy, but even though she is a female, she sprays everywhere in the house. This is a cat with a major attitude. She is extremely territorial and dislikes the fact that two other cats frequent "her" backyard. The cat has been doing this for about a year now. Her vet even prescribed some low-dosage drugs to keep the cat "numbed" so that she wouldn't care about the cats outside. With the drugs, the cat just slept more, and still sprayed while awake. The vet finally just shrugged her shoulders and said the cat was too territorial.
I am sad to see an otherwise happy and normal cat have to be put down for this reason. The cat's routine is that she is locked in the basement while my mother-in-law is at work (to keep her from seeing the other cats), and then is let outside for short periods of time while someone is at the house. She then comes back in the house for the remainder of the day. The cat seems to enjoy being outside more than being inside, but she is given limited outside time, and is watched because she has had her front claws removed.
There was one incident where she was attacked by one of the other cats and she took out her frustrations by biting a family member very viciously in the leg and left "vampire" bites.
Any suggestions? I would appreciate a quick response if possible, as this cat has only about one week of grace before she will be put to sleep. Thanks.
A: 1. The cat is doing this due to anxiety.
2. The cat should never be allowed to go outside. Going out just feeds its need to spray.
3. The cat should be confined during the day in a small bathroom in the house, with its litter box, water, food, catnip treats, and a taped recording of Mom's voice.
4. Your mom should conduct twice-daily anxiety-reducing one-on-one focus sessions with the offending cat, during which just the two of them spend 20 minutes in a quiet room with toys, catnip, and treats.
5. Rub some towels on the other two live-in cats, and put the towels under where the offending cat sleeps and eats.
6. When the offending cats gets aggressive with the other two, blast it with a water bottle and say, "Off."
7. When the cats are in general proximity without aggressive response, treats and catnip for all.
8. Make sure all cats in the home have been fixed.
9. Use sand-type litter, with no deodorizers, no plastic linings, scooped thoroughly each day.
10. Make sure the cats are on a beef-and-chicken-based diet and not solely on a fish-based diet.
11. Finally, your mom's veterinarian may want to look into putting the offending cat on Buspirone (BusPar) for 8-12 weeks, especially if you're considering giving her away or putting her down. It won't numb her. Good luck.
1/21/97 Q: I have an eight-week-old Akita I bought from a breeder. Because she didn't come from a pet store, she was with her brothers, mom, dad & grandpa when we got her.
I'm trying to do two things at once. First, I want her to be able to be alone in the backyard. There's dry food, water, grass, toys, blankets, doghouse, etc. She screams, cries, wails and makes a horrible "donkey noise." I let her ride it out (two to three hours!) and she'll take a nap...only to start again. I've tried bringing her in right when she wakes up to teach her that she's not coming in because of her "tantrum" and it seems to work (a little).
Second, I also want to housebreak her. For this, I need to have her inside. The two trainings don't seem to coexist. I eventually want her to sleep outside but I think it's still too cold at 40 degrees. Right now she sleeps in an X pen in the garage (it's heated) at night, so she potties in the pen and I think I'm telling her it's okay to go inside.
I've tried the "treats" when she potties outside, but I'm going crazy trying to do both. (My neighbors are going crazy, too!) I haven't left my house in a week!
A: THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS AN OUTSIDE DOG!
Your Akita is a descendant of a wolf, a pack animal. The more time it is alone, and out of the house and away from your scent, the more anxiety and loneliness it will experience and the more it will scream, bark, dig, chew, self-mutilate, and escape from the yard, and the more hyper it will become and continue to be.
Your dog needs to be sleeping with you at night (until it's housebroken, either in a crate or loosely tethered under your constant supervision), and it needs to be with you when you're home and have dog-door access into a limited area of the house when you're not home.
For housebreaking, take it out when it wakes up, after eating, after car rides and playing, and before bed. Take the dog to the same place; stay out with the dog for 20 minutes, reward it when it goes where you want it to, and pick up its poops each time.
Make these changes, sell the doghouse, get your Akita spayed or neutered at six months of age and make it truly a home pet, and things will work out. Good luck.
1/20/97 Q: My cat of nearly six years recently lost his brother to FIV. I always noticed that he seemed to follow his brother throughout life, and I thought that when his dominating (and gregarious) brother died, he might have troubles.
The problem (of meowing all the time) has been going on for almost a year now. Of course, I don't know if his brother was sick back then, but the meowing is a relatively new problem for a cat which was rather silent during his first five years.
I had a very hard time losing his brother, whom I probably favored because I preferred his intelligence and often dog-like behavior. He was very affectionate and intelligent, and was obviously the leader in our house.
So, my problem is that the surviving cat meows for attention all the time. He usually wants to go outside, so he meows until we let him out. His typical reaction is to turn around at the door and meow to come back inside. Once we give in (after a long time) to his constant whining, we let him back in, only to have this cycle repeated over and over again.
We are literally at wits end with all of this whining. We do not know what we are doing wrong. We have tried to give him more affection when he seems to be asking for it, but he has a very hard time settling down into our laps for more than a minute at a time. He also has a strange way of only liking to be stroked on his rump, and prefers to put his bottom in our faces, which leads to less lap time than he deserves.
Do you have any advice for a young couple who are trying to keep from going crazy with a cat which doesn't know what he wants and cries all the time??
A: Animals also go through a grieving period after a significant loss in their lives. They usually know when another animal in the home is sick much sooner than the humans do. Both can cause stress and lead to excessive meowing. Inadvertent reinforcement by the owners when the cat or dog vocalizes can train the animal to meow or bark for anything and everything.
Here's what I suggest:
1. Complete exam and full blood panel by your cat's veterinarian to rule out any physical disorder leading to this behavior.
2. Reduce the cat's stress by:
a. doing one-on-one focus sessions for 20 minutes with you and the cat in a quiet room twice a day with catnip, catnip toys, pounce treats, and speaking softly to the cat.
b. possible anti-anxiety medication from your veterinarian (like diazepam) for 4-8 weeks, and gradual wean off.
c. make sure the cat is on a beef-and-chicken-based diet and not solely a fish diet.
3. Notice those times when the cat is quiet and not vocalizing, and at those times GIVE THE CAT MASSIVE AMOUNTS OF ATTENTION, including play, toys, catnip, and food treats. When the cat excessively meows, ignore for 20 minutes. If the cat continues to meow NONSTOP constantly for 20 minutes straight (which I doubt), then press an ultra sound device called a Dazzer, once within 20 feet of the cat and say, "Off."
4. Then wait five minutes, and if the cat is quiet, give it positive attention.
5. I would cease allowing the cat outside excursions.
These steps, over a four- to twelve-week period, should significantly lessen, if not eliminate, your cat's excessive meowing.
Good luck.
1/6/97 Q: I have an eight-year-old female Doberman. In the last year, she has started to paw up the lawn. She doesn't dig holes, just pulls the grass up by the roots, eats a little of it, and leaves the rest around the yard. I have spoken to many people about this, and they say that it's a nervous problem. I have tried putting stuff on the grass to discourage this, like the stuff in the stores and also pepper, but nothing works. Is there something you can recommend to have her stop this? Thanks.
A: It may or may not be a "nervous" problem. Dogs which, for whatever reason, have an enzyme deficiency, frequently eat wood, dirt, or paper products because they are not metabolizing the good nutrient value of their food. You may want to talk to your vet about checking that and looking at an enzyme supplement.
Second, if the dog is doing this only when you are gone, then it may be separation anxiety, and a complete separation anxiety program is needed. (See below.)
Third, your dog may be bored if it has nothing appropriate (safe and interest-sustaining) to chew on, and if it is feeling ostracized while being kept outside for too long.
Try giving the dog two or three Redi-Gimborn 7" Natural Sterilized Bones, and cram them with sustainable goodies, like cheese or doggy beef jerky, and wash them out nightly.
Giving the dog dog-door access to the home (or to a limited area of the home) may help.
Increased exercise (walks) may help, too. Also, some dogs like to eat feces and there may be an abundant source of that if you're treating your lawn for growth.
So it could be many things.
1. Have the vet do a blood panel and rule out parasites and enzyme deficiency.
2. Decrease your dog's alone time, even if a family member or dog-walking service has to be utilized.
3. Give the dog appropriate and interest-sustaining chew objects, like the natural sterilized bones.
4. Give the dog limited access into the home, which smells of your body odor, so its anxiety will be lessened.
5. Make sure the dog is sleeping inside with you at night.
I'm especially curious as to why only in the last year of her 8 years, this has started. Something change in the home? Make-up of the family? Work schedule? Something traumatic in the yard? Gophers? See what I'm getting at?
If your vet rules out medical causes, then a temporary anti-anxiety medication may help. If the behavior is anxiety-based, you don't want to do a lot of punishment, since that would be like putting gasoline on the fire; it would only increase the anxiety. If it is an anxiety-based behavior, it is my experience that the dog shows this anxiety in other ways also. Something to look at.
Good luck.
1/6/97 Q: My mother is having a problem with her cat. The cat is a neutered, declawed male, one year old (adopted stray). He will often lie in wait and attack her feet, ankles, and legs as she walks about the house. Sometimes, if she is sitting, we will simply walk up, bite her at the ankle, and then walk away. Other than these "sneak attacks", he is an affectionate, loving, playful animal. Although not serious, this behavior distresses her terribly, and she now will lock the cat in the bathroom at night once he has bitten her. Not a good situation for her or the cat. Please send comments or advice. Thanks.
A: It is not unusual for young male cats, neutered or not, to show displaced sexual aggression toward people in its home. Here are some things to try:
1. The cat should be solely an indoor cat; no outside excursions.
2. Any stray cats coming around, shoo them away.
3. Do not over-pet or over-hold the cat: that frequently overstimulates the cat's nervous system and leads to this behavior.
4. Spread some fresh catnip around and use some catnip toys with long handles so the cat can redirect its play and sexual impulses to these play objects, with safe handles, to avoid Mom being clawed.
5. No roughhousing.
6. A strong blast of water and "Off!" if the cat bites or attacks and won't stop.
Try these things and in two to four weeks, this behavior should lessen. Good luck.
1/6/97 Q: Please help!! In the process of taking in strays and re-adopting out those to available "qualified" homes, I find myself with seven dogs: four males and three females. Our first male dog (pitbull/chow) is now two years old. He has always been the most affectionate and loving dog we've ever had. About three months ago I brought in an eight-year-old male black shepherd. They got along fine for the first two months, then the black shepherd started trying to boss my other male around. (The two-year-old male has absolutely no problems with the other two males in the house, a two-year-old cocker and a two-year-old beagle mix. When the two males would be outside, they would play well. It was when the two-year-old would want to come in, the eight-year-old would sit at the bottom of the steps and not let him in. It is always at the front door, either outside or inside that there is a growling session. Christmas morning it broke out into an all-out war. Then yesterday the two-year-old just viciously attacked the eight-year-old. The eight-year-old dog did not try to fight back but kept trying to retreat, and successfully did so once I contained the two-year-old. I am now keeping them separated and my two-year-old smells everywhere the other has been. The top dog in the house is my 11-year-old White Shepherd. I realize that the two-year-old is telling the eight-year-old he is the more dominant male, but how will I know when it is safe to have them together again? It does not appear that the eight-year-old is interested in all with challenging the two-year-old anymore?
What steps can I take to ensure the two-year-old he is higher of the two? I read in another question you answered to have the more dominant come in first, etc., but at this point, I am afraid to have them outside at the same time. Luckily, no one (except for me) was hurt. Thank you very much for your advice.
P.S. Three weeks ago a hunter tresspassed and shot the front left leg off the black shepherd, so it is definitely no longer a fair fight.
A: I would strongly suggest you find a home for the shepherd, pronto, or set up a separate housing area in your home for the strays, without access to your permanent home pets; especially the 2 year old.
The dominance struggle you outlined is correct. If you're going to keep both dogs, the sibling dog fighting program is involved, time-consuming, potentially dangerous, and may not be 100% successful.
For now, you should make sure both dogs are neutered, and perhaps talk to your veterinarian about putting the shepherd on Elavil, Buspirone, or a Prozac like agent to help reduce the aggressiveness.
Also, the two dogs should have separate times outside and NOT have the opportunity to guard the entrances from one another. Both dogs need to learn to sit, down and stay. Below is an outline of the sibling anti-fighting program. However, it is very, very difficult to implement such a program without hands-on, in-person, professional help from a nonviolent animal behaviorist. You can get a referral for one who doesn't use shock, muzzles, pinch collars or choke chains (specify this) from the APDT, Association of Pet Dog Trainers, at (408) 663-9257.
Your veterinarian should rule out an out-of-balance thyroid gland, malfunctioning adrenal glands, and temporal lobe epilepsy with the shepherd. Those two breeds, the pit/chow mix and the shepherd are very dominant breeds which have been bred successfully by man to fight, guard and attack.
Here's what I suggest you do, ONLY if you decide to permanently keep the shepherd, and are willing to work with your veterinarian and an animal behaviorist familiar with the techniques of William Campbell and Ian Dunbar, through the APDT:
1. Figure out who really is the dominant dog.
2. Start treating the dominant dog as dominant and assist the true dominant dog in keeping in-check the submissive dog who is the challenger. This is done by greeting, feeding, petting, playing, acknowledging, and letting in and out the dominant dog first, then the submissive one.
3. Discipline the submissive dog for trying to horn in on the dominant dog through noncorporal startle techniques (usually a non-noise startle, like a powerful blast of water, since you do not want to punish one dog for the other's offense).
4. Only give the dogs attention when they're together; never when they're separate.
5. When you do give the dogs attention, the dominant dog gets it first.
6. Do daily reconditioning exercises: one family member with one dog on one side of the yard on leash (and anti-pull device if needed) and the other dog with another family member on the opposite side of the yard. Each dog does ten sits, ten lie-downs, and a five-minute stay (through positive reinforcement methods of obedience).
7. Then, gradually, get the dogs closer and closer, until over a two-to-four-week period (still on leash), they are side-by-side doing their lie-downs, sits and so on. Any growling, lunging, aggressive squaring off, or breaking their stays results in a startle-redirect-reward reprimand.
8. After this has been achieved, then start adding on an extra 15 minutes, practicing a "cooling down" session, following the yard exercises, inside the house on the same couch with one owner with one dog at one end and the other dog at the other end of the couch with someone else. Gradually, get closer and closer until (still on leash), they are side by side without any provocation.
9. At the six-to-eight-week mark, start doing these yard (secured by fence) and in-house exercises off-leash, but armed in case they do fight and you have to intervene with the startle-discipline technique.
10. At this point, add a daily 15-30 minute heeling walk, with both dogs, with the dominant dog 6-10 feet ahead. At any point the submissive dog tries to get ahead, discipline it by suddenly cutting it off and circling ending up in a sit stay or startle with the water blast.
11. Rub a towel or old shirt on one dog (getting its scent on it) and put it where the OTHER dog sleeps and eats, and vice versa, to help establish a positive association for each dog with the other dog's scent.
12. When not home, the dogs are to be separated. When you can't give BOTH dogs attention, neither gets any.
13. Both dogs need to be sleeping with their pack leaders each night. The dominant dog goes up first, on leash, and is tethered to one side of the bed (or crated) and the submissive dog is brought up on leash second, and also tethered or crated. NEVER TETHER A DOG AND LEAVE THEM ALONE; THEY CAN PANIC, CHOKE AND DIE. ONLY DO TETHERING UNDER CONSTANT SUPERVISION SO YOU CAN UNTANGLE THE DOG IF IT GETS WRAPPED IN THE LEASH.
14. In the morning, the dominant dog is led out of the room first on leash and situated where it can eat in a separate area from the submissive dog who is brought down next.
15. Avoid greeting, playing, or doing sustained petting of the dogs in tight spaces; such as hallways, car door entrances and the like. These are the likely "hot spots" where the dogs will begin fighting.
16. If any fights break out, "Off!" and blast with the water or air horn or ultrasound. If the dogs fail to respond, GRAB THE MORE AGGRESSIVE DOG'S REAR LEGS OR TAIL AND LIFT UP, SUSPENDING THE DOG AND REMOVING ITS CENTER OF GRAVITY WHILE RAPIDLY MOVING BACK. DO NOT REACH FOR THE HEAD AREA OR GRAB COLLARS, YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY BE BITTEN!
17. Never have either dog on the same physical plane or level as you; it will reduce your dominance position in the pack and then the dogs will respect you less and hence, will ignore you if you command them to stop provoking each other or to stop fighting.
18. Never respond to either dog's initiation for attention. This is also a subtle way to reduce your dominance position and thereby dangerously raising the dog's position to greater authority and less respect.
19. Finally, in some cases, the dogs are so cued to go after each other, that some temporary medication from the veterinarian is required in order to take the edge off and give the behavior therapy treatment time to "kick in." Some behaviorists suggest giving a sedative agent to the challenging submissive dog in order to make the dominant dog's work easier resulting in less fighting. I disagree. I have found more success if BOTH dogs are given the medication. The two types of medications I have observed work the best (if they are going to work at all), are the human tricyclic antidepressant, Elavil (amitriptyline) and the human anxiolytic, BuSpar (buspirone). The medication alone will not do the trick; a comprehensive behavior therapy intervention, including reconditioning, non-force obedience and human family therapy intervention, changing the owner's mind-set and behaviors is also needed to effect a permanent cure. Most of the time, the use of such agents, along with the above outlined anti-sibling dog fighting program, is the last resort before one or both dogs are either given away or put to sleep.
Hope this helps.
1/6/97 Q: I have two kittens, a brother and sister who were found abandoned around 2 weeks of age. I have taken them to the vet and had them tested and got their shots. My question is, the kittens are still not very friendly towards me even though I've had them for about 6 weeks. Is it because they were not with their mother at such a young age? They still run and hide when people come over. Is there anything I can do?
A: Could be due to early maternal deprivation. Don't rush it. You may want to gradually give exposure to the home and keep them confined in safe area. I suggest not rushing toward them, staring them in the eye or doing a lot of picking up or restraining; that will feed the fear.
Sit on the floor six feet away; avoid direct eye contact; lay a trail of scrumptious treats (like kitty pounce treats, liver treats, or their kitten food) and catnip (fresh or from the store) and get them to come to you.
Let them explore and make first contact. Reward with praise, some treats, catnip, catnip mouse toys, or tin foil balls, and after a couple of weeks, gentle one-finger brief caressing.
Gradually build up your time, duration, handling and full-hand pets over an eight-week period. Hopefully, at that time (around 16-20 weeks of age) you'll see a difference. Good luck.
Q: My sister has a dog that she found as a stray, and because of its behavior she believes that it was abused. It is fine with her other dog and herself and her husband but not with visitors. Even though they have tried to get her used to people, if you move at all when the dog is in the room she starts barking. My father was actually able to take the dog for a walk but as soon as they got back in the house the dog started barking again. They just want to be able to have people over without the dog freaking out every time. Any suggestions?
A: Poor kid. A systematic desensitization program will be the way to go. I assume her barking is out of fear and she's not lunging at people.
Here's what you do:
Teach the sit command by slowly taking a food treat in one hand and begin from her nose past her eyes over her head while saying sit. This will make her body into a see saw and when her rear end hits the ground, say, "Good sit," and reward with treat. Do three sets of 10 a day.
Second, whenever someone comes over, initially, put her away momentarily in another room with a scrumptious chew toy. Then come back and let the guest in and have them sit down and not stare at the dog, or reach for or approach her quickly.
Then, lay a trail of cheese or hot dog treats from the doorway of the room the dog is confined in to your guest.
Put the dog's leash and regular collar on and act happy and bring the dog out, encouraging her to eat the treats. As long as she stays happy and snacks, praise and reward. When she notices the stranger, if she barks, tell her "off" firmly.
If she continues, USE NO CORPORAL PUNISHMENT OR HARSH CHOKE CHAIN CORRECTIONS. Instead, squirt her with a little blast of water and "off" again. After 5 minutes, resume.
Practice this for 4-6 weeks, WITHOUT GUESTS TRYING TO PET HER until she gets to the point of enjoying guests coming over and allowing them to feed her these treats, since the ONLY TIME she gets this gradual food buffet treatment, is when a guest comes over and is already sitting down.
You may also want to have your vet pull some blood and check to make sure the dog's thyroid and adrenal functioning is where it should be.
Finally, some anti-anxiety medication, such as Elavil or Buspirone, may help if this continues. Talk to your vet.
Good luck and GIVE IT TIME. It may take up to 12 weeks, or three months, for the dog to be sufficiently relaxed. Don't rush it, don't push it, and do NOT use any harsh punishment.
Loading a Horse
Q: 10/22/96 We have a nine-year-old thoroughbred horse. Every attempt to get her into a trailer has been to no avail. She has been drugged until she couldn't stand, with no success. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
A: The general approach with any animal who is avoidant or anxious is to gradually desensitize them through slowly introducing them to what they fear the most, in the most innocuous form. It's like creating a bull's-eye target.
I would first practice having the horse come near a fake trailer, first just up and down wooden ramps with no walls, floors, or ceilings; inducing and luring it with hay, alfalfa, sugar treats, fruit or what have you, especially if the horse is hungry, and preferably without pulling on it in any way.
After treat-luring the horse up and down a wooden ramp, then add the left wall panel (artificially propped up) at a distance away (20ft), with each day getting it a little closer until at the end of a week's time, it's kitty-corner with the ramps. Then , the following week, also with food lure, and without yanking, start with the right panel, getting it closer and closer, until by the end of the second or third week, the horse is eager and willing to go up and down the ramp with walls on either side.
Then add the third panel, acting as the rear wall to the trailer, first at a distance, and then by the end of the week, connecting with the left and right walls. You may want to make this wall full of holes or slots, to create a less solid appearance b efore filling in the holes.
Then the roof panel. First suspended at a height and then gradually lower and lower until the horse is going up the ramp into a facsimile of the trailer, with three walls and a roof.
Finally, the last panel, serving as the tailgate.
It may take four to eight to twelve weeks of baby-stepping it, with luring and treating, for the horse to be desensitized. After you are not having any problems with the makeshift training trailer, use the regular trailer, with wooden ramp, detached fr om vehicle, to practice in before hooking it up.
That would be the general approach I would take, although my hands-on experience is stronger with dogs and cats. You may also want to pose this question to John Lyons, a famous horse trainer and behaviorist, who trains horses like I do dogs and cats: t hrough positive reinforcement and desensitization versus the rough and tough "knock 'em on the side of the head" approach. His phone number in Colorado is: (970) 285-9797. His address is: P.O. Box 479, Parachute, Colorado 81635. His Web page is at http://www.Beulahland.com/lyons/index.htm.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Kitten Won't Use Litter Box
Q: 10/22/96 My daughter has a Himalayan kitten, about six months old, who has decided not to use the litter box. She urinates on the floor or on a mat inches away from her box. The box is always clean and scooped out. She shares her abode with a male kitten, ab out two months old. No matter how often the floor is cleaned, scoured, etc., the kitten persists in this behavior. She appears to be healthy in all other respects. Any ideas? Thanks, in advance, for your time.
A: Both cats are young. You want to make sure adequate house training has been implemented from the beginning and the veterinarian has ruled out the following:
1. cystitis, bladder infections
2. impacted anal glands
3. parasitic worms
4. coccidosis
I also recommend neutering and spaying the cats after the six- to eight-month period. Regarding the housesoiling behavior itself, the following may help:
1. one litter box per cat
2. larger litter boxes
3. no plastic linings
4. no deodorizers
5. sand-type litter
6. scoop thoroughly twice a day
7. confine cats when not home or when you cannot supervise
8. catch cat in act, say "off," and spray with water gun
9. recondition off-limits area with "Outright," let dry, and feed snacks on the area
10. make sure cat's diet is full of beef- and chicken-source nutrients, not merely fish
Try these steps, give the cats four to six weeks, and let me know. Good luck.
General Flea Information
Q: 10/22/96 I do not have a flea problem at the present moment with my two-year-old Lab. My friend just recently got a puppy and she did notice a few fleas on her shortly after getting her. She gave her a flea bath, then noticed a few more on her and went throu gh the flea bath procedure again. There are also two cats in the house, one of which is not exposed to the puppy, as it is living with a tenant downstairs in her home. I would like to know if, under the circumstances described above, my dog could get flea s if the two were brought together. Any information you could provide me with would be most appreciated.
A: Yes, your dog could pick up fleas from another dog or the outside yard/brush, or even pick up worms from ground defecated on by another dog that had worms (they enter your dog through its paw pads).
A couple of preventive and curative measures can alleviate or control any potential flea problem:
1. Add a teaspoon of Lipiderm oil to the dog's breakfast for skin and coat lubrication. Sometimes dry skin causes itching and scratching, which lead the dog owner to think that the dog has fleas.
2. Add one or two tablets of dog garlic/yeast pills, crumbled up in the dog's meal. It tends to act as a natural repellent or aversive agent to fleas and ticks.
3. Stay away from flea collars, dips and powders. In consultation with your veterinarian, use a WATER-BASED flea spray (it must say so on the label), instead of an alcohol-based flea spray which will sting your dog, dry out its skin (leading to more it ching), and knock you out with noxious fumes.
4. Comb your dog frequently.
5. Spray 3-M Duratrol into your rug and vacuum cleaner bag.
6. Feed your dog a good lamb-and-rice-based dog food, after consultation with your veterinarian, for skin and coat and anti-allergy maintenance.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Dog Retraining
Q: 10/22/96 What a joy to have an online behavior expert! I hope you can help me. Our nearly two-year-old golden retriever has always used the back lawn for eliminating. It wasn't until I discovered what dog urine does to grass that it became a problem! I have since gotten a bale of straw and spread it along the side of the house where I want her go. The problem is that even though I try leaving droppings in the area and soaking up her urine in straw and putting it there too, she still has not used the new area . (Also, she has a tendency to eat her own droppings if they are not picked up fairly soon. Perhaps you have some input on that too.) Short of spending the day out there with her, how can I discourage her from using the lawn until she finally resorts to u sing the new area? She is quite smart, but a bit high-strung.
A: What you describe is a common problem. A couple of things may help.
First, let's regulate your golden's bathroom outings for the first few weeks by taking her out when she wakes up, after eating and playing, and before bed. Take her out on leash to one six-foot-square area of the yard. Allow her 20 minutes. Direct her to where you want her to go, either to a corner of the yard where you don't mind the urine stains or a non-grass area (dirt, sand or cement) upon which you have laid several strips of sod or temporary grass. When she goes at that spot, praise and reward h er with a treat. Pick up her feces immediately.
Over an eight-week period, gradually shrink the area of sod used, or remove one strip at a time until the dog has learned, through conditioning and reward, to go to the bathroom in that area. Mind you, you may have to select two small areas since some dogs do not want to urinate where they defecate and vice versa. DO NOT LAY FECES DROPPINGS DOWN; it will cause her to not want to use that area and will increase her feces eating.
One final point about the copraphagia, or stool eating: make sure the vet checks for worms or parasites which could be siphoning off the good nutrient value of her food. You can put some Accent, the human food enhancer or tenderizer, on her food before she eats her meal. This will tend to cause her stools to come out tasting foul and help reduce her desire to eat them.
A final suggestion: do not allow her to have unsupervised access to the off-limit potty areas which you're trying to break her out of using, because each time she goes and you don't catch her, it reinforces the undesirable behavior.
You may want to sprinkle scrumptious treats and get her to engage in an incompatible snacking behavior in those areas where she has gone to the bathroom, so she begins to associate the area with a new meaning. Also, make sure that if you do this, that it is not anywhere near the area where you ARE trying to get her to go.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Doberman Dominance
Q: 10/22/96 Hi. My Doberman Pinscher has two sisters and a brother in the house and each time she is on the sofa sleeping and another dog comes around her, she starts growling and usually ends up in a big fight. She also fights most of the time with a new golde n that we retrieved from a bad home. They play well, but I can't seem to get her to stop growling at all of them when they come around her when she is sleeping. She doesn't bother me - just the dogs. When she does it I yell, "No!" and send her outside but she still does it. Thank you.
A: It's not unusual for the dominant dog to give such warnings or displays to the subordinate members of the pack. The less dominant dogs usually back off. If the other dogs are challenging her, then we need to make sure exactly who is really the top d og of their pack; there can only be one, followed by the next in command and so on down the line.
The dominant dog guards and hoards food, toys, favorite resting places, cuts the others off to greet you first when you come home and humps or t-stances the submissive ones. When the submissive dog tries to make itself equal by infringing on the domina nt dog's privileges, the dominant dog will warn.
So, a number of things may be going on in your case which will lead to a number of different things. First, the Doberman on the couch may indeed be the dominant dog; you need to check for the indicators I listed above to confirm that. If she really is, then you need to discipline the submissive challengers to stay away from her and the couch with a non-noise startle discipline technique, like a forceful blast of water in the face and a firm "Off!"
A lot of sibling dogs will do their fighting only when the owner is home. It's obvious that they do that since most of the time you do not find dead or bleeding dogs when you come home from work. Your presence then acts as a cue for the submissive ones to challenge, and for a fight to ensue since when you are around you may be giving dominant dog privileges to the wrong dog(s).
You should greet, pet, talk to, feed, play with and let in and out, the dominant dog first, and the others in order of their subsequent position after the dominant dog. If they try to infringe, blast them and back them off.
The other possibility is that the couch dog is not the dominant dog and the dominant order may have switched. Again, look for the indicators listed above. If it has switched, then the couch dog can no longer be provided dominant privileges.
Finally, if the golden you brought home is a temporary guest, and is not going to live at your place forever, keep it separated from the dominant dog. It's not fair to your own dogs, and their turf, to bring in invaders, upset the pack, and then expect them to get along. The balance is then upset again when the invader leaves.
Also, same sex dogs will fight more than opposite sex dogs.
All the dogs should be spayed and neutered; that helps reduce aggression.
All the dogs should be taught the stay command, with the challenging dogs taught to keep away from the couch to avoid triggering a challenge to the couch dog if, in fact, she is dominant dog.
Finally, you may want not to have ANY of the dogs, dominant or submissive, up on furniture or beds. That may cause them to challenge you one day and inappropriately communicates to them that they're equal to you in the pack. You also may be inadvertent ly setting the dogs up for fighting.
Finally, you may want your vet to rule out an out-of-whack-thyroid problem with the aggressive initiator. Good luck.
Two Dogs That Won't Sleep Together
Q: 10/22/96 We have two dogs (brothers) silky Maltese terriers, 18 months old. We have a "dogyloo" (like an igloo) insulated kennel which is large enough for both of them to sleep in. It has just come to our attention that the "quiet, passive" one (Dougal) isn' t so passive; he isn't letting the other dog (Angus) sleep with him at night. Angus is 800 grams lighter than Dougal. Could this be because he has been sleeping in the cold weather (sometimes 5 degrees)? And how can we encourage them to sleep together?? P lease help; I'd hate to think little Angus was freezing all winter.
A: First, the dogs should be sleeping inside with the owners.
Second, the dominant dog is correct in not letting the submissive dog sleep in its bed with its dominant privileges. Have both dogs sleep inside, with different beds, different crates, or loosely tethered under supervision, on either side of the bed.
The dogs need to be integrated into the family wolf pack and the dominant dog needs to retain its own "space." Good luck.
Dog Peeing On Carpet
Q: 10/22/96 A neighbor of mine asked me to see if I could help her find some answers as to how to stop her dog from peeing on her carpet. Her vet already gave her an idea about using vinegar to treat the spot & then to use a towel soaked in vinegar & water to r ub the dog all over, so that he won't want to repeat that behavior. It hasn't worked & she has tried it repeatedly for seven times now. Any other ideas?
A: This vinegar method won't work. It will just cause the dog to smell and learn not to come on command. Instead, here's what I suggest:
1. Dog has no access to accident area when owner is not home.
2. When owner is home, he/she should catch the dog in the act of the crime, startle it with a blast of water or penny can, and redirect it outside where the dog is supposed to go.
3. Clean up the accident area with "Nature's Miracle" solution; let dry, and feed the dog scrumptious snacks on the very spot twice a day for two-four weeks.
4. Take the dog out to its designated potty area when it wakes up, after eating, and before bed. Reward the dog for going where it should with praise and a treat and clean up the dog poops each time. This should do it. Good luck.
Biting
Q: 10/22/96 Hi! We have a two year old Lhasa apso that we adopted as a stray from the local humane society. She is a beautiful dog and we love her dearly. The difficult part is that we do not know her background. She bites me all of the time - it is play biting . With my husband she just sits like a little angel. HELP! I just cannot break her of this habit and sometimes her bites really hurt. I tell her no and put her down, but I believe that she thinks that I am playing and plays rougher. Any suggestions??
A: The play-like biting can be a pretty typical problem (they have been bred to guard the temples in Tibet), although I don't like to hear that a Lhasa is doing that. So, here's something for you to do:
1. No tug-o-war games.
2. No petting her around the head or face for six months.
3. No chasing her to take things from her mouth; instead, teach the "give" command, by bending down six feet away with a handful of scrumptious treats, and say "give" when you want her to relinquish an object. When she does, tell her "good give," take the object away and reward her with the treats.
4. Redirect her to appropriate chew objects, like the Redi-Gimborn 7" natural sterilized bones, in which you can stuff cheese or peanut butter.
5. Do not allow her to jump up on you or furniture; jumping and nipping frequently go hand and hand.
6. Have her sit before you give her any type of attention. It will be a nonviolent way to increase your dominance.
Try these first for a couple of weeks. If she still problem nips, we may have to incorporate some non-corporal discipline techniques. Good luck.
Puppy Trouble
Q: 10/22/96 I have a three-month-old puppy (wolf and sheepdog). She is very smart and the first week only wet in the house one time. Then a friend wanted us to take a black Lab that was one year old. The Lab is a nice dog but wouldn't eat, so we were giving a l ot of love. Now my puppy will not go to the bathroom outside; she just wants to play all the time! I take her outside a lot but she just wants to play! She comes and tell me after she has gone in the house! It's been a month now. What do I do? Thank you f or your help.
A: I am assuming both dogs are female. So, take each dog out separately, not together. Go out with the puppy when it wakes up, after eating, and before bed. Reward with treats and praise when it does go outside. Clean up poops each time each dog goes. To get the puppy not to go to the bathroom at the off-limits area, clean it up with Nature's Miracle, let dry, and feed it (and only it) some dog snacks twice a day for two to four weeks on the very spot.
Spay both dogs.
Figure out who is dominant dog and greet, feed, play and let in and out first.
Try that and you may want to check with your vet about cystitis bladder infection. Good luck.
Lhasa Pup
Q: 10/22/96 What is the gestation period of a Lhasa apso?
A: Canines go through a gestation period of approximately nine weeks or 63 days. As far as which breed is where in that range, I refer you to my colleague in the Q&A "Ask An Expert," Dr. Diana Greenwood, veterinarian. Also, you may want to purchase the book, THE HEALTHY DOG AND CAT BOOK, by Amy Ward, DVM. I hope this helps.
Dog Won't Come When Called
Q: 10/22/96 First of all, great service! I'm hoping you can help with a problem we're having with our 10-month-old German shepherd. Jerry has gotten through basic obedience, and does his commands well in the house. He's learning to heel, still fights it a bit, but we've got his attention and he seems to be progressing. The problem is that we take him to a local beach for off-leash time, and he's great with the other dogs, and runs and gets exercise far beyond anything we could do for him with a leash attached. But we basically need to wait until he's totally wiped out to get him back on leash or catch him - often easiest when he's distracted getting to know another dog. He's not a runaway candidate - I notice that when he's running the beach and starts getting farther away, he'll turn around, take his bearings on us and rip past us the other way, never getting out of sight. I can also call him when he's on one of these expeditions and 9 times out of 10 he'll stop, come back to our general vicinity, and sort of check in. Then he's off again. We don't want to take away his exercise time, but we're probably reinforcing his behavior of I'll-go-home-when-I'm-damn-ready. How do we get him under control off-leash?
A: Jerry should NOT be off leash in public; when he's in controlled settings (park, enclosed tennis court, or with the dog's at a beach play), he should only receive this play time AFTER EIGHT WEEKS OF LIGHTNING-FAST-EVERY-SINGLE-TIME-YOU-CALL-HIM-HE-C OMES BEHAVIOR! So, here's what you do:
1. Do not call him to come for punishment.
2. Do not call him to come for grooming.
3. Do not call him to come to isolate him.
4. Do not call him to come into the sun to french fry.
Call him to come: to come in the house; to go for a ride in the car, for food, for play and for other fun things.
Next, teach him the come command:
1. Come Game Warm Up: have him sit in front of you on short leash at home and at different distraction settings. For 10 repetitions say, "Jerry Come!" make a hand gesture to your chest, and pop a piece of hot dog, cheese, or dog beef jerky in his mouth . Do this 10 times.
2. Long-Line Come: then, put a 20-30 foot lunge line, and first practice in the backyard, front yard, and one NEW place a week (always on leash) by saying, "Jerry Come," doing hand signal, when he's almost at the end of the 20-foot leash. As soon as he turns around and begins approaching you, do the Michael Jackson moonwalk backwards 6-10 feet (giving him a moving target), and then squat all the way to the ground, and extend your hand full of treats. When he gets there, have him sit and pop a treat a t wo. Practice 10-20 times, three sets a day, for eight weeks.
3. Then, practice off-leash in the house, backyard, enclosed tennis courts, or enclosed parks without any other off-leash killer dogs, and get him to come reliably.
Only when he's coming reliably under these conditions do you go to the beach with his 30-foot leash on, and give the same come command with the other dogs. If doesn't come, gently reel him in like a fish so he CANNOT NOT COME! Once he knows you can enf orce it, then the behavior should generalize when he's gotten away from you. Also, neuter him! Less likely to take off and roam to find bitches in heat. Hope this helps.
Dog Yelps When Crated
Q: 10/22/96 I am writing you to request your help on possibly resolving a problem my puppy may be having. We both work during the day and unfortunately we can't spend that time with her and still provide a place for her to live. So we must crate her. About this time she starts to bark, yelp, you name it she does it. I hate it!!!! We try not to give in, but sometimes we leave as early as 6:30 a.m. and we feel it's unfair to our neighbors to be awakened by a loud puppy who isn't getting her way. Can you please pr ovide us with a suggestion on how we may be able to modify this sort of behavior? Thank you.
A: A puppy this young will have a hard time being away from its pack and will suffer uncontrollable anxiety. Have one of you come home during lunch to break up its day. Or have a reliable dog-walker come over and do it. The dog should NOT be cooped up in the crate ALL day. Give it a laundry room area, or the kitchen (doggy-gated or exercise-penned off), with its water, bones, and bed.
Have the dog sleep inside with you at night. (You may crate it for housebreaking needs at night, as long as it is with you in the room.) Crate the dog for only four hours or less during the day.
Once it's over 12-14 weeks of age, and has been adequately vaccinated, you can start taking it out on exercise walks before you leave in the morning.
You may also want to leave the dog a couple of Redi-Gimborn Natural Sterilized Bones, stuffed with cheese, beef jerky or peanut butter, with access to her water bowl, before you leave, so your departure starts becoming a positive thing, not solely a ne gative one. Hope this helps.
Dog Fails Housebreaking
Q: 10/22/96 I have a six-month-old Jack Russell terrier that I have been unsuccessful in housebreaking. We've had him since he was eight weeks old. I have tried a strict seven-day regimen of keeping him in the crate and taking him right outside and feeding him on a regular schedule. As soon as I give him any freedom in the house he inevitably makes a mistake, usually in a far-off corner or in the basement. He doesn't make any effort to go to the door and bark or scratch to go out. When he has to go, he goes ins ide and looks very guilty afterwards. I also have a golden retriever who took one day to housetrain as a puppy. Is this a problem with this breed? I am about at the end of my rope. What should I do? Thanks for your help.
A: Each dog is a different individual. You'll be better off in NOT comparing the two dogs. Have the veterinarian check your Jack Russell for cystitis, impacted anal glands, coccidiosis, and parasites.
If your Jack Russell isn't neutered, neuter him.
Incidentally, too much crating will drive your dog nuts!
First, take the dog out when he wakes up, after eating/playing, and before bed. Go to the same place each time, spend 20 minutes, reward with praise and treat when he goes and pick up the feces each time.
Gradually give him more and more freedom, first on leash under your watchful eye, so he can't go off in a corner and have an accident without your catching him.
When he does have an accident, startle in the act and blast with water or shake empty soda can of pennies and redirect him outside.
Finally, train him that his off-limit accident areas are not where he should go by cleaning it up with Nature's Miracle, letting it dry, and feeding him scrumptious snacks on that very spot twice a day for two to four weeks.
Slowly but surely (it may take up to eight weeks), he'll come around. No food fours hours before bed. Ice instead of water three hours before bed. At bedtime, pick up the ice bowl and crate. The rest of the day, make sure he has ample water. Good luck.
Q: 10/22/96 Why does my nearly two-year-old golden retriever eat her own droppings? It seems to be a result of boredom to me, but is there a medical explanation? How can I stop her from doing this?
A: Here are some things to try:
1. Pick up the dog's poop each time it goes so it doesn't have to clean up the Bandini mountain in the backyard itself.
2. Make sure the vet has ruled out parasitic worms or coccidiosis.
3. Make sure the dog is on a good-quality dry food, like Nutro Max or Nature's Recipe lamb and rice dry food.
4. Don't leave the dog outside all day with nothing to do.
5. Sprinkle the human food enhancer, "Accent," on your dog's food prior to its eating it, and the poops should come out aversive tasting.
6. If that doesn't work after two weeks, try crumbling some chloraphyll tablets into the food prior to eating so the poops come out green and mediciney like Chloraseptic.
7. Startle the dog in the act of approaching its poop with a loud noise or blast of water, and say, "Off!"
8. Redirect the dog to natural sterilized bones with goodies inserted.
9. Make sure your dog doesn't have an enzyme deficiency; it may need an over-the-counter supplement, such as Kayzime supplement.
Good luck.
9/16/96Q: I guess I was not clear in my original response...she is not cuddly and loving to me when guests are there...and she is more skittish than usual. She already gets more than a half hour a day of love, attention, etc. In fact, sometimes she appears to think it's too much of a good thing...but if she doesn't get the attention she can be real persistent in getting whatever she wants...she can be quite stubborn. However, when my son or boyfriend are there she does not want to get close or be too confined...it's almost as if she thinks I am going to hold her for them to torment her...which certainly has never happened. She also becomes more jumpy and runs when you try to pet her...almost like she is playing a game with you of "Catch me if you can...I'm smarter and can get away better!!!" My main concern is that she won't come to me when they are there...could it be that she is just being stubborn toward me because she resents their intrusion?
A: Yes, she could be more stubborn when the guests are around. Thanks for clarifying. Let's shift emphasis and have her become more and more comfortable with your son and boyfriend, by your withdrawing all attention from her when they are there, and have them open up the can of tuna, salmon, or whatever, or walk around dropping tiny pieces of cheese, pounce treats, or spreading catnip, forcing her to seek them out instead of you, in order to be more comfortable. Once she is okay with these two significant people in your life being there, then we can switch back to some of the procedures I first recommended, in order for her to start coming to you.
She may or may not want to be held when ANYONE else but you is there - it puts her at a defensive disadvantage. Some cats never want to be held or to receive sustained petting. We'll have to see how she does.
Again, check her protein dietary intake with the vet and if her behavior progressively gets more skittish, you may have to consult with your vet regarding anti-anxiety medication.
Good luck.
9/13/96Q: I adopted my cat, when she was six months old, from an individual who had to find her another home because her male Siamese was continually beating her up. Therefore, she was quite afraid of other animals. However, I don't have any other animals so this is not a problem, except when other kitties visit at the patio door she gets real defensive. However, she was extremely skittish when I got her. She has outgrown most of this when I am around but is very skittish when visitors come in, including my 23-year-old son and my boyfriend...who is there frequently. I would like to help her overcome this...a fast movement makes her seem to jump out of her skin...and when visitors are around she never wants to sit on my lap or be too near...even to me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
A: Your kitty is showing signs of trauma-induced anxiety, based upon her early upbringing and being mugged by the male Siamese. Here's what I suggest you do:
1. We need to overall reduce her baseline anxiety; have one-on-one focus sessions whereby, for one half-hour a day, you and your kitty spend an exclusive time together, caressing, speaking soothingly and playing.
2. Before your expected company arrives (within 30 minutes), put your kitty in another room of the house with scrumptious treats and fresh catnip or catnip from the pet store. See if you can get hold of a piece of clothing or an object which smells of your expected guest (or boyfriend) ahead of time, and rub it gently on her, and put it near her food or bed area.
3. After your guest arrives, have them sit down; lay a trail of pounce treats, cheese treats, or salmon or tuna with catnip from the room your kitty is in, all the way to your guest. When your kitty approaches the area where the stranger is, induce her to come over to you and reward with treats and more and more catnip.
4. Gradually, over a half-hour period, get closer and closer to your guest (first starting across the room) until you and your kitty are hanging out right next to the guest with treats and catnip. Then, totally ignore your kitty and allow the guest to be the only source of attention (at this first visit, merely sprinkling catnip or gently tossing treats or extending their hand for your kitty to sniff).
5. Over a period of three or four separate visits, your kitty should gradually get less and less scared about your visitor. However, your kitty may not ever get to the point of jumping into their lap for petting.
6. Also, sometimes a mild anti-anxiety agent from your veterinarian, for an eight-to-twelve-week period, may allow the behavioral desensitization techniques to kick in more easily.
7. No corporal punishment.
8. No roughhousing or teasing.
A program like this, given the cat's early and impressionable history, may take 8-16 weeks of slow and gradual, steady progress.
Good luck.
9/16/96 Q: I have three small dogs, all female, all purebred: a Lhasa, a rat terrier and a mini-dachie. We recently moved to a new house and they are peeing all over the house. What can I do? We've tried walking them more often but they still prefer the house to the yard. Help!!
A: Whenever a dog or cat is having house-soiling accidents, I recommend the veterinarian rule out cystitis (bladder infections), parasites, coccidiosis, and impacted anal glands.
In addition, the dogs, if they're over six months of age, need to be fixed or spayed, since unspayed female dogs will urinate more frequently, especially when they come in and out of heat or when another unspayed female dog invades their territory.
Then you want to look at basic housebreaking. Start with fixed feedings: put the food bowl down, pick up after 15 minutes so they get used to eating on a fixed schedule. This will help you regulate input and output.
Take the dogs out (at first, one at a time to reduce dog-dog distraction) when they first wake up, after eating, after playing and before bed. Take them to one area of the yard versus different places on different days.
Praise and reward with a treat after they go in the yard. Pick up the poops each time. Give each dog at least 15 minutes out there. Then rotate dogs.
Wherever they have accidents in the house, change the meaning of those accident areas from an elimination place to a snacking place; the two behaviors are incompatible. First, clean up area with "Nature's Miracle," let dry, and sprinkle some irresistible treats on the very spot twice a day for four weeks for each dog one at a time, and they'll stop using that spot.
At night, loosely leash the dogs to bed with you or in dog crates in the bedroom, which will cause them to learn bladder control all night.
Try these procedures, and if there is no medical problem, then in four to eight weeks, they should be done.
Good luck.
Q: We recently purchased a golden retriever puppy for my parents. He has been biting them quite a bit and we would like to know what to do in order to change this behavior. Is it all right to squeeze Chip's mouth and say no? He has plenty of toys, chew bones etc., and is 10 weeks old.
A: It's not unusual for young puppies to mouth, bite and chew. There ARE things your parents should and should not be doing.
First, DO NOT SQUEEZE THE MOUTH! That only adds to your puppy's oral fixation and can lead to more serious biting. It may also teach the puppy not to come to your parents when they call. Here is what I suggest they do instead:
1. No petting around the puppy's head or face for six months.
2. No tug-o-war games.
3. Do not give the puppy clothing or linen objects to chew on.
4. Catch the puppy in the act of chewing on an off-limits item and startle it by shaking a can of pennies.
5. When the puppy tries to nip at your parents, they should remove all attention and petting and ignore the pup for at least 15 minutes.
6. The puppy will be teething between 4-6 months of age. Redirect it to an appropriate chew object, like a Redi-Gimborn 7" Natural Sterilized Bone, and stuff some goodies in it, like cheese.
These are the things I recommend you and your parents do to reduce and eliminate the puppy nipping. Good luck.
Q: 9/13/96 We recently purchased a golden retriever puppy for my parents. He has been biting them quite a bit and we would like to know what to do in order to change this behavior. Is it all right to squeeze Chip's mouth and say no? He has plenty of toys, chew bones etc., and is 10 weeks old.
A: It's not unusual for young puppies to mouth, bite and chew. There ARE things your parents should and should not be doing.
First, DO NOT SQUEEZE THE MOUTH! That only adds to your puppy's oral fixation and can lead to more serious biting. It may also teach the puppy not to come to your parents when they call. Here is what I suggest they do instead:
1. No petting around the puppy's head or face for six months.
2. No tug-o-war games.
3. Do not give the puppy clothing or linen objects to chew on.
4. Catch the puppy in the act of chewing on an off-limits item and startle it by shaking a can of pennies.
5. When the puppy tries to nip at your parents, they should remove all attention and petting and ignore the pup for at least 15 minutes.
6. The puppy will be teething between 4-6 months of age. Redirect it to an appropriate chew object, like a Redi-Gimborn 7" Natural Sterilized Bone, and stuff some goodies in it, like cheese.
These are the things I recommend you and your parents do to reduce and eliminate the puppy nipping. Good luck.
Q: I have three inside female cats who have now been together for several years, all declawed and spayed. We raised them each from kittenhood. The 14-year-old female has been defecating in the center of our bed quite unpredictably, a couple of times a month, for well over a year now. She has been given her own separate space and has been denied any access to our bedroom. She now deposits it on that bed. The most recent incident was the morning after I have given her a special treat all to herself and cleaned her litter box and lavished praise on her. I have put obstacles on the bed to discourage the behavior. I moved her litter box to the very spot where she goes in the hope that she would use and I could gradually move the litter box to a more desirable location. She seems to hold no hostility toward the two younger cats.
Once I caught her in the act whereupon I scooped her up and deposited her in the litter box.
My vets have declared her perfectly healthy, just aged, but not infirm. They did advise that even after the original stimulus is gone that the animal will fixate and continue to do it, but they offered no solutions to the problem.
At this point, I simply want to stop it. I can prevent her from doing it by totally confining her, but it would have to be for the rest of her life. That would deprive us both.
I would appreciate some suggestions.
A: Dogs and cats tend to destroy and mark items which smell most like their owners. It helps reduce their anxiety. They also do this in reaction marital conflicts between their owners. More commonly, this behavior is anxiety-based. It usually is not marking territory unless a new cat has been introduced to the home, or if you have some toms hanging around.
So, whatever the causal agent is for this anxiety based behavior, here is what I would suggest:
1. Continue to prevent access to your bedroom for her to defecate without you there to supervise and catch her in the act (preventing the gambling on the slot machines in Vegas).
2. When you do catch her in the act, use a blast of water as a reprimand startle technique, instead of a noise; the noise will punish ALL the cats for this one cat’s offense.
3. Make the accident location incompatible with elimination. Put an old sheet on there; spray some Outright on it and let it dry. (You’ll probably want to spray the sheet first, then put it on the bed.)
4. When you’re supervising her, lay some strips of aluminum foil on the location.
5. Start feeding your cat catnip and pounce treats around the perimeter of the bed.
6. Make sure you are using the clumping sand type of litter WITHOUT any deodorizers added to it.
7. Thoroughly scoop the litter twice a day.
8. Do not use any plastic linings.
9. One box per cat.
10. Completely wash out the litter box with soap and water and refill it twice a week.
11. Conduct daily one-on-one focus sessions, just you and the offending cat, in which you spend half-hour of one-on-one time, caressing, speaking soothingly to the offender, and spreading fresh catnip. No other humans and none of the other cats should be around.
12. Again, when you’re not home, no access to bed.
13. Six weeks of implementing all of the above should do it. If not, you may want to consult with your vet about using an anti-anxiety medication agent for a 12-week period, with gradual wean-off, giving the behavioral techniques a chance to kick in.
Good luck.
Q: I am in the process of moving back in with my parents. They have a 1-year-old spaniel/setter/bird-dog mix. I have a purebred chow chow. My chow has always been very good-tempered. Recently, she has started fighting with my parents' dog. At first, it was over treats or meat. Recently, the fights have grown more frequent and much worse. Lately, my parents' dog has left the fights limping. When they're not fighting, they get along great. I think it is a dominance issue; the chow is a dominant dog, but the mutt won't give her dominance up. After all, it was her house first. Is there anything I can do to stop these fights?
A: You and your parents have a potentially dangerous situation on your hands. Being bitten is a high probability. If the two dogs will be permanently living together for now on in the same home, I would suggest the following:
1. Neuter or spay both dogs.
2. Feed separately.
3. No more bones or toys.
4. Keep separated when no one's around or at home.
5. Greet, pet and give attention to the chow first, then a few moments later, the other dog.
6. Teach both dogs (initially separately) to sit, lie down, and stay.
7. After four weeks of this, and when each dog has a solid five-minute stay, gradually practice the obedience closer and closer, until both dogs (while on leash, of course) with a person attached to each leash, are doing their sits, lie downs, and stays side-by-side.
8. If any growling, lunging or snapping occurs, blast the offending dog in the face with a high-powered squirt gun or mountain bike water bottle, or set off a hand-held air horn.
9. When the dogs are getting along, pet and praise both at least six feet apart from one another.
10. Consult with your veterinarian and have your chow's thyroid levels checked. Sometimes out-of-whack thyroid levels can lead to aggressiveness. Also, have the veterinarian prescribe some anti-aggression/anxiety medication for the chow. Do not use the customary tranquilizers; they make dogs aggressive to other dogs.
11. Dogs are to be on leash in the home until they have had no fights for eight continuous weeks.
12. If you're just visiting temporarily, or will be leaving, moving back, leaving, moving back, you may want to place your chow with another more stable home where it can be the only dog. Also, this may not be the dog for you. You may be better off with a friendlier breed, one that will get along well with your parents. Remember, chows, like their distant cousins the Shar-peis, were bred for fighting and attacking and DO have an aggressive reputation. Your parents' dog IS at risk of being killed!
13. I would also suggest you take the chow through an obedience course and consult with an animal behavior consultant who does not use the "slam-'em-upside-the-head" approach. You can get a referral from the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at P.O. Box 3734, Salinas, California 93912, Attention: Ms. Degroot.
Also, if the dogs do go at it, don't reach for the face or head area; you'll get bitten. Reach for the more aggressive dog's tail or rear legs, and lift the dog's rear section off the ground removing its center of gravity and move backwards quickly. That should stop the fighting if the water doesn't.
Again, this is a very dangerous situation and MORE LIKELY THAN NOT, YOU OR ANOTHER MEMBER OF THE FAMILY WILL BE BITTEN! SO EXPECT IT AND TAKE PRECAUTIONS AND CONSULT WITH YOUR VETERINARIAN OR REFERRED ANIMAL BEHAVIOR CONSULTANT.
Jumping Up
Allowing a dog to jump up on people can be dangerous. A large dog can easily knock down a child or elderly person. Even a small dog can startle or frighten someone and cause them to stumble or fall. And many strong, able-bodied people simply don't want your dog jumping on them, scratching their legs, tearing their stockings or soiling their pants -- no matter how "cute" you may think your dog is. Owners who allow their dogs to invade someone's personal space without invitation are not being responsible.
Dogs like to jump up to give facial greetings, like their wolf ancestors. Dogs have scent glands in their lips and ears that give off identification information like the magnetic strip on the back of your American Express card. By simply getting down to the dog's level to greet it, and letting it sniff and lick at that point, you can remove a lot of the dog's incentive to jump.
Secondly, dogs jump up on fellow dogs to assert their dominance, or superior position, in the pack. The dog that is literally "on top" is politically on top, too.
Third, dogs jump up because their owners have accidentally rewarded the jumping behavior by giving the dog inappropriate attention when they jump.
To correct this, owners must switch their response and reward only quiet "all-four-paws-on-the-floor" behavior. As soon as you come home, ignore the dog for the first 15 minutes. If your dog jumps, use the startle-redirect-reward technique by squirting it with water, shaking a penny can or depress an ultrasound device while saying "Off!" to startle it. Continue to wait out the 15 minutes. Then and only then, when the dog is quiet and calm, start lavishing it with attention, petting, feeding and walking. The dog quickly learns that if it greets you calmly, without jumping up, it will receive your attention and affection sooner.
Whenever your dog approaches you or any other member of the family, immediately give it the sit command. This will back the dog away from you and position it in a sit. Reward with a treat and verbally praise: "Good sit." Do this every time your dog approaches you before it gets a chance to jump. This will teach your dog to come up to you and sit instead of come up to you and jump.
Remove all play or rough-housing that induces jumping up. Instigating the dog to jump through play and love will counteract your attempts to get the dog to stop jumping up on people and furniture. If you want your dog in your lap, then you should first tell it to sit on the floor, then call it to come. That way you are not inadvertently rewarding jumping behavior. Or the owner, while sitting in a chair or sofa, could have the dog sit first, then pat his lap and say, "Up." The dog is then allowed to jump up.
These few simple techniques can go a long way in training your pole-vaulting canine not to jump up.