By contrast, shiitake have been cultivated in Japan for more than two thousand years and in Asia mushrooms are viewed as beneficial to health as well as tasty. Many Japanese and Chinese people regard the healing powers of mushrooms as unquestioned. Shiitake have been shown to lower blood cholesterol in controlled tests and the research continues on many other mushroom species, both here and in Japan and China. In Asia, mushrooms are revered and consumed as the ultimate health food.
In the United States, they are gleefully gathered in the forests of Oregon, Michigan and Washington, and menus now list "Michigan Morels" as proudly as they used to say "imported French." There are thousands of mushroom species growing wild in the world; in the U.S. alone there are over 3,000—some edible, some poisonous. There is only one species cultivated both here and in Europe: agaricus bisporus, the French champignon de Paris. However, cultivated mushrooms lack the earthiness and character of wild ones and are a poor substitute in recipes in which mushroom flavor is the whole point.
Judging by the profusion with which wild mushrooms grow under the most varied conditions, one would think that growing mushrooms commercially would be easy. Not so. Since it is not a matter of planting a seed, the spawn must be sterile, a pure culture spawn produced in a lab as sterile as a hospital operating room, to be deposited in a scientific compost from which it will draw its nourishment. Mushrooms are grown in special windowless houses in which temperature and ventilation, two all-important factors, can be controlled.
Portobello
The most popular of all the "wild" domestic mushrooms, portobellos are the only ones that possess the size and succulence of the larger wild mushrooms, such as porcini. They are tastier than their small cousins, supermarket button mushrooms, because the portobellos are sold when the caps are open and mature, the stage at which they are most flavorful.
Shiitake
Grown in Japan for more than a thousand years, shiitake are considered the finest eating mushroom in Asia. They derive their name from the shii tree, on which they grow wild in Japan. They also grow on dead or dying Asian oaks and beeches, but have never been found wild in North America. The most wonderful aspect of shiitake is their flavor. Distinct and slightly smoky, they adapt very well to stronger flavors in a dish. When buying shiitake, pick nice, firm caps that have a spongy feel, rather than limp, older ones. Shiitake stems are fibrous and can be eaten only when small and immature.
Enoki
Also known as enokitake, these Japanese mushrooms are sold in clusters of slim, ivory-colored stalks, resembling long, white nails with rounded heads. Enoki comes in a solid bunch in three-ounce packages; once you remove the hard end that holds them together and separate them, there are a lot. They are best eaten raw in salads or added at the last moment to soups for some visual intrigue. Their flavor is mild and pleasant but not distinct.
Oyster
The stems of these mushrooms are eccentric; that is to say, they grow at one side of the cap rather than in the center. Consequently, oyster mushrooms resemble scallop shells. A very rich-tasting mushroom, hence its name.
Morel
Distinguished from other mushrooms by the honeycombed involutions in their caps, morels have an intense, earthy flavor that has been variously compared to sweetbreads, buttery eggplant and steak. Another unique characteristic of morels is that they are hollow inside, which makes them perfect for stuffing. The stems are always tougher than the caps, so you should buy morels with trimmed stems if possible.
Chanterelle
Among the most widely picked wild mushrooms in the world, chanterelles may also be the most beloved. These orange-yellow mushrooms have an aroma of woodsy apricot and their trumpet-shaped caps look as though they have been turned inside out. Deep gills, like folds of fabric, extend almost all the way down the stems. Fully mature chanterelles can become quite large, growing to six inches high and weighing close to half a pound, but the typical specimen is usually three to five inches high from root to cap, and quite firm. They are referred to as girolles in the south of France.
Porcini
Called the king among mushrooms, these boletes differ from the other major group of mushrooms, the agarics, in that they have dense pores on the underside of the caps, instead of gills, which are the defining trait of agarics. These Italian mushrooms are known as cepes in the cuisine of France and as steinpilz in the cookery of Germany. Porcini come in all sizes, from quite small to five or six inches in diameter. The stem is usually plump and swells at the base. Cepes grow in oak, chestnut and beech forests. They have a great deal of character and are best used in making sauces.
Dried Mushrooms
Mushrooms are extensively dried in Europe and in the Orient where they play an important part of local cookery. They are imported loose into this country and are generally packed here in plastic bags. The most common dried European variety to reach us is the boletus, but others are chanterelles, morels and the black mushrooms of China. These mushrooms keep their aroma and flavor remarkably well. They are expensive, but a little goes a long way.
To reconstitute dried mushrooms, place them in a pan, cover with water and bring to a raging boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer for about twenty minutes. Use the liquid in your soups or sauces, as it is delicious.
Measuring Mushrooms
Mushrooms have very subtle flavors. Sautéing them in onions and butter remains one of the best ways of preparing them. In matters of seasoning, be conservative. Garlic and mushrooms are wonderful, but garlicky mushrooms all taste the same. Mushrooms will give off a lot of liquid, so they should be cooked on high heat to prevent them from dissolving into a puree. Wild mushrooms should always be thoroughly cooked as they contain varying amounts of protein that the body cannot digest until it (the protein) has been cooked.
Purchasing Mushrooms
A fresh mushroom shows no space between the cap rim and the stem. As it ages, its moisture evaporates and the cap opens, exposing a brown, velvety ring of gills. Buy mushrooms with slightly open caps only if they can be used at once.
Buy mushrooms loose so you can pick the best, and remember that the size of the mushroom cap has nothing to do with its quality.
Storing Mushrooms
Fresh and wild mushrooms are very perishable and need air circulation, coolness and humidity. Use them within a day or two of purchase. Refrigerate in a basket or other open container covered by damp paper toweling, never in a plastic bag. Do not rinse them before storage. A damp cloth works better than a mushroom brush to remove the dirt embedded in mushrooms.
3/4C uncooked wild rice, soaked in boiling water for 45 minutes, then drained
3C chicken stock
2 Tbsp. butter
2C sliced fresh mushrooms (wild or domestic)
1/2C celery, coarsely chopped
1/2C onion, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. flour
4C chicken stock
1 Tbsp. dry sherry (optional)
1C cream
2 Tbsp. Italian parsley, chopped
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 slices bacon, cooked, drained and crumbled
8 Italian parsley sprigs
Place the wild rice in a pan and add the 3C chicken stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 25-30 minutes, uncovered, until tender. Drain.
Heat the butter in a sauté pan, add the celery and onion and cook until soft. Add the mushrooms and cook over high heat until tender. Stir in the flour and cook until lightly colored. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer 10 minutes. Add the rice and bring to a simmer, add the optional Sherry and bring to a boil. Add the cream and Italian parsley and return to the boil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
To serve: Divide the soup among 8 bowls, sprinkle with bacon and garnish with parsley sprigs.
Makes 8 servings.
Crisp Wild Mushroom Salad
3C spinach
1 pkg. sunflower sprouts (optional)
1 large Belgian endive, thinly sliced
1-2 Tbsp. olive oil
6 large shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
6 large oyster mushrooms, shredded
3 large portobello mushrooms, sliced
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/3C toasted walnuts
1 pkg. enoki mushrooms, stems removed
Walnut Vinaigrette
Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a sauté pan until hot, add the shiitake, oyster and portobello mushrooms and sauté over high heat until crisp. Add salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
Mix the spinach, sunflower sprouts and endive slices together in a bowl and toss with vinaigrette to coat lightly. Toss in the sautéed mushrooms, then the walnuts and finally the enoki mushrooms, adding more vinaigrette, as necessary.
Makes 6 servings.
Walnut Vinaigrette
2 Tbsp. sherry wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 head garlic, split in half crosswise, wrapped in foil and roasted in a
300F oven for 1 hour, puree squeezed out
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
5 Tbsp. walnut oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
In a food processor combine the vinegars, garlic and mustard until emulsified. With the machine running add the oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Shiitake Mushroom
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Chanterelles